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Showing posts from February, 2014

Collapse Weave Coat in 60/2 Silk Twill Blocks: Before and After Washing

Image
Here it is before washing...
And after! The fabric "shrinks" width-wise by more than half. (OK, the closure
was not a result of the washing, but you have to have an embellishment, right?)
Here's the back view before washing...
And after.

It's almost as if you can wear this coat two ways. If you want it flat and larger, all you have to do is iron out the pleats. If you want it smaller and elastic, just wash it in warm water and a bit of soap. No iron, of course.
Collapse weave, in this case, is a result of both structure and materials. I used a 60/2 silk weft, threaded on 8 harnesses in 3/1 and 1/3 twill blocks, so that the weft floats pull the warp in lengthwise, just as a matter of physics.

Usually you have a weft that is much finer than the warp, which gives the yarns "wiggle room" to move readjust and collapse warp-wise. In this case, I pushed the collapse effect further by using super-fine weft yarns of overtwist wool, which twists and turns every whic…