It had to be machine washable (but I dryed it on the line, to prevent shrinking), without long floats, soft to the touch (of course), and, at least in my opinion, made with natural fiber. Again, in my opinion, cotton is the way to go, particularly unmercerized cotton because it's softer and loftier than mercerized cotton.
Showing posts with label Strickler. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Strickler. Show all posts
Friday, November 22, 2024
Let's Do This! Strickler's Pattern #728 for a Baby Blanket
Like pretty much everyone else, I love pattern #728 from A Weaver's Book of 8-Shaft Patterns by Carol Strickler. This multiple-tabby pattern has charm and subtlety -- and also offers the opportunity to play with color by adding stripes that emphasize the various motifs. (If you have the book, it's the pattern on the bottom-right corner of page 228.)
I think I've seen more weavings in this pattern than in any other well-known 8-shaft design. For those of you who don't own the book, here's the threading and tieup:
The design is by Joan McCullough of Campbellford, Ontario, Canada, who just passed away in October, sadly. But what a gift she gave us. The design is described as rosepath in multiple-tabby weave, deriving from page 48 of The Rosepath Motif: An Approach to Weaving Design by Margaret Windeknecht.
A brief explanation: multiple tabby is simply a series of threadings, typically evenly spaced among the shafts -- each of which, when tied up correctly, will weave tabby. For instance, instead of threading tabby as 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and tying it up as 1, 3, 5, 7 versus 2, 4, 6, 8, you can thread tabby as 1, 5, 2, 6, 3, 7, 4, 8 and tie it up as 1, 2, 3, 4 versus 5, 6, 7, 8. It really doesn't matter how you thread for tabby, as long as you tie up your shafts to weave on opposites.
In the case of Strickler #728, we're not weaving tabby but rather twill variations using a 3/2/1/2 ascending twill tieup. This creates a variety of interesting motifs in the warp when treadled with a point draw, as you see in the treadling below.
Here are the basics for warping, weaving, and finishing the blanket.
Warp yarn: 6/2 unmercerized cotton from Webs (in my case, I wound 21 stripes of 15 ends each in turquoise and then, in between these stripes, I wound 4 stripes of 24 ends each successively in sage, yellow, and light yellow, yellow, and sage, for a total of 20 stripes.)
Weft yarn: 6/2 unmercerized cotton
Sett: 24 epi. Sley 2 ends/dent in a 12-dent reed.
Width in reed: 33.29"
Begin by weaving a 1-inch-long base for the cloth (for turning over and hemming) using 10/2 cotton as weft to prevent the hem from being too thick. Do the same at the end of the cloth.
After this, using a weft of 6/2 cotton, weave the treadling pictured above in as many repeats as needed to achieve a blanket that is 2 yds. in length (not including the total of 2" of hem fabric woven with 10/2 cotton).
Finish by running a zig-zag stitch along the cut fabric on both ends of the blanket. Tuck this end under and iron the hem flat in preparation to stitch down the hem.
Hem as seen from the front of the blanket (which I define as the side with the warp-emphasis motifs, which appear slightly textured, as if emboss)..)
Hem as seen from the underside of the blanket (the side that has less texture, appearing to emphasize the weft more).
I washed the blanket in my top-loader, using cool water and regular detergent. I then hung it to dry (rather than putting it in the dryer, where it would shrink more) and finished by ironing it neatly. The final dimensions are about 2 feet 6 inches wide by 4 feet long.
There you have it! An attractive, functional, warm, and cozy blanket for the soon-to-be-newborn of the soon-to-be-parents in your life. On 8 shafts, it weaves up fast -- maybe just in time for the holidays?
Thanks for reading!
Tuesday, March 26, 2024
Can You Name Your 10 Favorite Weaving Books? These Are Mine.
For me, hands down, my list starts with this one. Not because this is how I learned to weave or even because this is how I learned that weaving has cosmic possibilities. It's because I can't stop learning from this book and I love the beauty and intricacy of the ideas in this book. Sometimes I can't fathom what she's writing about, but I keep trying.
What's more important: Taking care of a book or reading it a lot?
I spent maybe a decade weaving my way through this one.
"Strickler," that's how weavers describe it, sort of like "Beyonce" or "Marilyn" -- a true star. This book is a delight and (in my humble opinion) belongs in your library if you have eight shafts. Maybe even if you don't.
Atwater -- another single-name star.
I think Mary Meigs Atwater single-handedly resurrected the art and craft of weaving in America in the 20th century. This is not hyperbole. We owe her almost everything (again, in my humble opinion). Published almost a century ago, the book is grandly and authoritatively titled: The Shuttle-Craft Book of American Hand-Weaving, Being an Account of the Rise, Development, Eclipse, and Modern Revival of a National Popular Art, Together with Information of Interest and Value to Collectors, Technical Notes for the Use of Weavers & a Large Collection of Historic Patterns. My edition is inscribed "Wayne Baker April 1951," a year before I was born.
Davison. Now that I think about it, ALL of the weaving classics
are known simply by the last name of the writer/weaver.
First published in 1944, my version is from the fourth printing in 1947. I treasure this book for several reasons -- among them, it's stamped with the name "Ruth C. Herron." She was a beloved member of our guild and a superb weaver, who continued to correspond with us from her late-in-life home in California, where she died at 107. I think of her often.
Even Ruth wrote in her books, albeit in pencil.
Is there anyone more loved among weavers than Anni Albers? From the Bauhaus to the gold medal for craftsmanship from the American Institute of Architects, the weaver who summoned us to "take a thread for a walk" and continues to teach us to this day. This book is her masterpiece, second only to her art.
Oh my gosh, I'm only at book number five. But this is a good time to pause and qualify my listings, to try and explain why I've chosen them. My list is by no means a "must have" for every weaver, or for beginning weavers, or even for a guild's weaving library. Not at all. These are just the books that I, at this moment in my life and in my weaving practice, love to have on my bookshelf. You might say these are my "desert island" books -- you know, if you were stranded on a desert island and could take only a handful of books with you, what would you choose? I'm also writing this as a sort of dialogue with you, the reader (assuming you've gotten this far), hoping you might, like me, appreciate the weaving books you love and perhaps even consider reading the books I've listed, if you haven't read them already.
(Not that I've read each book cover to cover. I'm really not that kind of a reader when it comes to books about our craft.)
So on down the list. And one more note: This list is not in any particular order of preference or value. It's just for perusement, as libraries themselves are.
I have to include Chandler. May the weaving goddesses bless this book,
because this is how so many of us learned to weave.
There was a time when I referred to Chandler as I was dressing my loom, as I learned to read drafts, as I was deciphering how to sley 16 ends per inch in a 12-dent reed, all of the basics. She gave us this gift and this book will always be in my library for that reason.
Wait, what? Not quite about weaving, but this book is
where I go down my own special rabbit-hole.
If you love dyeing, as I do -- and if you love creating textured weavings using shibori-resist techniques, as I do -- this book is another masterpiece, a weaver's companion. (Detour: There's a relatively new book out there, a brilliant book written by a former New Yorker writer who became a guard at the Met: All the Beauty in the World. You should read it, just saying.) Anyhow, this book by Yoshiko Wada presents all the beauty in the world of shibori. It's a big book, 9 1/2" high by 12" wide, with 211 pages of photos large and small, with information and inspiration about the magic and mystery of the Japanese art known as shibori.
Three more to go. This is hard and a lot of you may not agree at all. But I will press on. (Get it? Press, as in publish?)
Another book in my own area of interest: Ann Richards's definitive book on weaving dimensional textiles. She approaches her designs with a laser-like focus and creates beauty as a result.
Ann Richards of England is one of the luminaries in the field of dimensional weaving. I traveled to London to study with her, and that workshop plus this book gave me a foundation to build my own textured weavings. The joy is in the process, from start to finish: learning how to tame unruly threads as you dress your loom and then how to give them freedom as you weave so that they have room to move about in the finishing. And the finishing is a joy, as you see a fabric change almost organically in the water.
Sometimes the best books are those that continue to offer up insight and enjoyment well after you've read them -- or rather thought you read them.
There's a saying attributed to several sages: "When the student is ready, the teacher will appear." This book keeps bringing me lessons for new techniques -- and I've owned it for at least 20 years.
Ah yes, the old Weaver's magazine, perhaps one of the greatest how-to resources for weavers. Somehow I got my hands on the entire collection (which is another treasure, but not a book, that I could add to this list). Fabrics that Go Bump is a compendium of patterns and instructions that appeared in a number of issues, all focused on achieving bumps, pleats, ruffles, and billows in your fabric. I turn to this book often for inspiration and understanding.
So what's number 10? Stubenitsky once again!
Why? Because it's crammed with originality and innovation
about one of my favorite techniques: deflected doubleweave.
Stubenitsky always lays a world before you, this time looking at the graphic, colorful, texture-full world of deflected doubleweave. (The woman is merciless when it comes to writing books: I think she's at five now, if you include Janna Weaves, and they're all abounding with patterns and ideas.) What I like about this book is that she offers a solid explanation for drafting DDW, which isn't as easy as it looks. One of my friends whose work appears in the book, when I asked how she arrived at her wonderful designs, told me she "played around a lot." And I understand exactly what she meant. There is a mystery to creating these designs and Stubenitsky helps de-mystify much of it.
That's my top ten. For right now, at least. What are yours? If you're like me, you have a library -- some of which you love, some of which you like, some of which you don't like but can't seem to part with. We need them for our work but we also need them as friends, it seems. That's what books are for.
Thanks for reading!
Thursday, March 17, 2022
More Explorations in Parallel Threading: Playing with Strickler #728
Among the 10 or 20 most popular contemporary weaving patterns, Strickler #728 (first photo) is among them, I would guess. I've seen many iterations on Facebook and it never fails to dazzle. And if you "Google" the pattern, the variations go on and on, as you can see in this screen shot from my computer....
Credit goes to Joan McCullough, who designed this intricate, ornate gem -- a Rosepath motif in multiple tabby, which is one of the favorite structures of my "weaving mother," Joyce Robards. (Shout out to Joyce, whose "Many Friends" design appears on the facing page in Strickler.)
It's the endless possibilities for interactions of color and pattern, I believe, that entice most weavers. But for this post, I would like to play with the design potential of #728 using an extended parallel threading, otherwise known as an Echo threading. Once again, McCullough's pattern shines!
The original draft of #728
Above is the original threading, tieup, and treadling you find in Strickler. To create the same pattern in Echo, all you need to do is click on the "Warp" dropdown menu in Fiberworks, choose "Parallel Repeat," then "Overlapping Repeats Shifted by 4," and then "Apply." (Please note that the "Parallel Repeat" command is available only with Fiberworks Silver. Also, I am using a Mac, which has slightly different commands from a PC.)
Here's what you get:
I could see using different-colored stripes in the warp as weavers love to do with the original twill design, so that the linear motifs are outlined and clarified.
What about Jin? Using the same parallel threading, all you need to do is create a 4/4 descending twill tieup and add tabby shots in between. (Note that I changed the weft color to black to emphasize the patterns.)
"Instrestring," as my son used to say when he was a toddler. This may be a bit dizzying, but then again, it all depends on the colors you choose and the function of the piece.
Not much different from Shadow Weave is Rep: same threading, tieup, and treadling. The only changes are that the sett goes from plain weave to denser than double weave and the weft has alternating thick-and-thin yarns.
I like this. Again, I see a lot of potential for playing with different-colored stripes in the warp.
Last, there's double weave, yet another structure that can be designed on an extended parallel threading.
728 in double weave, front
And back, although not much different
McCullough's design comes through in so many variations -- and on just 8 shafts! I got to thinking: I have a 32-shaft Megado, so I wonder what would happen if I expanded the threading to 32 shafts, using a 4-color, 4-end parallel threading?
The way I see it, this pattern is something like Beethoven's Ode to Joy, endlessly pleasing, whether it's performed as a piano solo or with a full symphony and chorus.
And who knows? Maybe I could develop a workshop on this? From Echo to Jin to Shadow Weave to Rep to Double Weave, from 8 shafts all the way to 32...
Thanks for reading!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)

















